Connect with us

Published

on

This is a moment of speaking out and freaking out. Today’s off-the-cuff comment is tomorrow’s outrage, and in a world where everyone is a brand, one of the weapons of choice has become the consumer boycott.

Recently Kanye West spurred calls for a boycott of Adidas, his sneaker partner, when he announced in an interview that 400 years of slavery “sounds like a choice.” When Donna Karan put her foot in it on the red carpet after the Weinstein sexual harassment revelations by wondering if women were “asking” for trouble because of how they dressed, a petition was circulated on Care2 for Nordstrom and Macy’s to drop DKNY (even though Ms. Karan had not been associated with the brand since 2015).

Calls to boycott the Ivanka Trump brand by the group #GrabYourWallet began after Donald Trump’s leaked comments about grabbing women in a sexually aggressive manner and continued after Mr. Trump became president (even though Ms. Trump had also stepped away from her brand, after the election).

Dolce & Gabbana even made it an official meta-trend by creating #BoycottDolce&Gabbana T-shirts after a movement had begun to — yes, boycott the brand thanks to its relationship with Melania Trump, the first lady.

Karl Lagerfeld, the longtime creative director of Chanel and Fendi and founder of a namesake brand, is known to be “the greatest talker in Paris since Oscar Wilde,” or so said Godfrey Deeny, the global editor of the Fashion Network. But while he can be terrifically quotable and entertaining, he also has a tendency to utter outrageous things. And lately, that type of comment seems to be escalating.

Last week, Mr. Lagerfeld gave an interview to the French newspaper Le Point in which he said he was considering renouncing his German citizenship because of the one million Muslim immigrants that Angela Merkel, the chancellor, had accepted into Germany, a decision he linked to the rise of neo-Nazism in the country.

The comment made the German newspapers, and followed similar statements Mr. Lagerfeld made last year on a French television talk show in which he said, “One cannot — even if there are decades between them — kill millions of Jews so you can bring millions of their worst enemies in their place.”

That declaration came just after Mr. Lagerfeld, an accomplished cartoonist, had drawn a sketch for the German paper Frankfurter Allgemeine Zeitung of Adolf Hitler thanking Chancellor Merkel for inadvertently allowing the far-right party into parliament. Which itself came before another interview, with the French magazine Numéro, in which Mr. Lagerfeld dismissed the #MeToo movement and asserted, “If you don’t want your pants pulled about, don’t become a model.”

It’s as if he’s sticking his finger in the light socket to see what will happen.

But here’s what does: not much.

Every time Mr. Lagerfeld makes an incendiary statement, there’s a flurry of upset online, but it is contained, focused on him and not the brands that employ and enable him. There is no call for a boycott of Chanel, Fendi or even his namesake label. The companies themselves don’t even bother to issue the now seemingly de rigueur “We don’t agree, but he is his own person and has a right to his views.” They just tuck their heads in and have no comment, or don’t respond. How come?

There is no doubt that Mr. Lagerfeld occupies a singular space in the style universe. He is someone who has shaped the fashion industry as we know it (and our wardrobes as we know them), alongside names like Giorgio Armani and Rei Kawakubo, and is probably about as close to a living legend as exists in fashion.

A certain tolerance of idiosyncrasy goes along with that — a certain “Oh, it’s just old Uncle Fester doing his thing” — as well as fear when it comes to criticizing the power player in the room. Especially when that power player works for a brand, like Chanel, that is enshrined on a power pedestal.

Indeed, a friend who privately expressed outrage over Mr. Lagerfeld also said: “Don’t quote me, please. I don’t want to lose my fifth row seat at Chanel.” When Sara Ziff, the founder of the Model Alliance, spoke out against Mr. Lagerfeld’s comments on models, she said she received a lot of support via direct messaging from contacts — who then said they could not make their feelings public.

Still, no brand in untouchable. Last May Chanel came under fire in Australia for cultural appropriation after it created a $1,325 Chanel boomerang, and was forced to make a quasi apology, announcing “it was not our intention to disrespect the Aboriginal and Torres Strait Islander community.”

And just because the fashion world quivers in its stilettos at the idea of calling time, that doesn’t mean the consuming public should. Which suggests that there is something else going on, and it may have as much to do with the current cultural and political reality as the boycotts do.

Yes, I am talking about Mr. Trump.

As with the president and his tweets, Mr. Lagerfeld has been saying outrageous things so regularly for so long and with such gumption, everyone is numb to the substance. It’s almost expected; he has positioned himself as a provocateur; it’s part of his brand.

And before you can really digest one statement, he is on to the next, all of it said with enough volume and certainty to clear a way through the excess chatter in its path. (Kanye West does this, too, but doesn’t get away with it quite so often.)

We seem to be living in a weird dual reality. Just as we have become more sensitized to the experience of different social groups, we are also more inured to the growth of uncivil discourse, wherever it may originate, on Fox or in fashion.

Still, when it comes to fashion, Mr. Deeny thinks there are at least signs of change. “It was striking that after Chanel’s most recent cruise show, staff informed journalists at the after-party inside the massive cruise liner in the Grand Palais that they could ‘seulement saluer,’ or only greet, Karl and not ask him any questions,” he said, noting that this had the result of minimizing the risk of what Mr. Lagerfeld might say.

“After 25 years of meeting Karl before and after shows for WWD, Vogue Hommes, Le Figaro and now Fashion Network, I cannot remember the last time that ever happened.”

Original Posted : Nytimes

Continue Reading
Click to comment

You must be logged in to post a comment Login

Leave a Reply

Fashion

Everyone in Cartagena Is Wearing This Perfect Summer Dress

Published

on

By

Summer Dress

If you’re lucky enough to travel to Cartagena, Colombia, this summer, be prepared to see one dress in particular on every in-the-know, stylish woman. On my recent trip to the beautiful Caribbean city, I asked Colombian designer Silvia Tcherassi which one of her dresses is the most popular in her Cartagena boutique, and she was quick to respond: the Selvino Dress ($2500).

“The Selvino Dress is one of the most versatile pieces I’ve ever made; it’s a new classic,” Tcherassi told Who What Wear. “You can go from casual to party with a simple change of accessories. Some people arrive to Cartagena thinking that it is another tourist destination and never imagine that the women dress up at night to go to restaurants and then to the club. They see this dress in the window of my boutique or posted in Instagram and fall in love immediately. Also, its fluid silhouette and bright color match perfect with the city—and then you can wear it effortlessly in Santa Monica or Saint-Tropez, day or night.”

Harper’s Bazaar España contributing editor Sofía Paramio Delgado, below, is just one of the chic women who have worn the dress in Cartagena—you can see for yourself just how well it blends in. Although Paramio’s yellow version promptly sold out on Net-a-Porter, the dress is still available in black-and-white, so get clicking. Scroll down to see the dress in question and shop the brand.

Continue Reading

Fashion

Tim Gunn on Fashion, Florals and the Royal Wedding

Published

on

By

Royal Wedding

Tim Gunn, America’s favorite fashion mentor, is best known for his work on Project Runway alongside Heidi Klum. Through his subtle wit and attention to detail, Gunn redefined the understanding and appreciation of modern fashion as we know it. On meeting him a few weeks back when he was getting ready for the Command x Gilt Pop Up Shop in New York City, I was gratified to realize that in-person, Gunn is gracious, wickedly sharp and incredibly kind. In other words, Tim Gunn personifies his catchphrase and seems to always “Make it work.”

In addition to his keen knowledge of fashion, Gunn has an almost encyclopedic knowledge of design history. He spouted architecture tidbits and design history and proudly referenced his past at Parsons School of Design where he served as associate dean before becoming Fashion Design Department chair. I’m certain I blushed fiercely when I mentioned teaching a class I developed in partnership with French luxury goods conglomerate LVMH. Gunn asked me the name of the course, and when I told him, A Short History of Beauty Culture from Cleopatra to the Kardashians, he drolly responded “Well, at least I like the first part, let’s just skip the ending.”

Gunn shared some of his thoughts on how to update your personal look and your home without breaking the bank.

Flowers everywhere: Floral patterns tend to pop up frequently during the spring, with this year being a flowery fashion bonanza. In case you’re wondering, florals go in and out of fashion for clothes, but they can be really tricky when used in home decor. “I think with interiors it’s different,” Gunn said, “because you’re living it and not just wearing it.” He referenced hyper-feminine and florally infused designer Betsey Johnson saying, “I don’t know how Betsey Johnson lives, but I would imagine it’s like her clothes. That’s got to be hard.” If you’re a die-hard floral fan, Gunn suggests using it in limited quantities and spread throughout your home instead of in high concentration in certain spots. Bedrooms and sofas could work, dining rooms—not so much.

With all this talk of florals and royal wedding mania, I was sure that the chintz and cabbage roses traditionally favored by the royal family would set off a craze on our own shores. Not so, according to Gunn. And though he covered the wedding of Prince William and Kate Middleton for ABC News back in 2011, he’s not really planning on binging the upcoming nuptials of Prince Harry and Meghan Markle. It’s a style thing he said, and he isn’t really expecting much of a “celebration of fashion there.”

Your home vs. your personal style: Gunn said even in the fashion industry, one can grow tired of looking at eye-catching items all day. “You’re surrounded by beauty all day and sometimes you just want to shut it off,” he said. For that reason, his own home is decorated in muted shades and neutrals. “I feel like our homes truly are like a nest, the one place where you have to feel comfortable. I have a very neutral palette to my apartment inspired by the colors of limestone. Color is having a moment, but if that’s not your thing you can achieve the same effect with artwork. And keep moving everything around your home- the furniture, the artwork, the rug that doesn’t serve you, the upholstery you never liked. Just because something has been in your family for generations doesn’t mean it will work for you. I use artwork to really bring in more palpable color.”

Get Moving: Gunn grew animated when talking about his partnership with Command, the brand better known for their sticky strips and hooks. As he explained it, you can update your home all the time by switching things around regularly. “I think color can revive you and your home,” Gunn said. “In my home it’s all the colors of my book collection. I think people don’t realize how you can change the look of things by repositioning them. I move things around as opposed to trading things out, so it always feels new.”  The new invisible or decorative items in the line allow you to hang your art temporarily and keep moving it around. Gunn also artfully arranged small gold hooks that can be used as decorative in and of themselves, or more glam when hanging favorite pieces of jewelry. “I like that you can move something 3 inches to the right, or change an arrangement in a room and change everything,” he said. “But don’t just change one part of a room, because moving pictures or furniture changes the proportions of the room and the visual relationships between what’s on the wall and what’s around it.”

Decorating battles: Meanwhile, what do you do if you live with someone who has terrible taste? Do you have to let them add their zebra printed metallic table to your living room? “You pick your battles,” Gunn said. “I’m not sure there’s one right way to solve it,” he said gesturing to an extremely shiny rhinestone and metallic pillow. “Maybe you add a pillow. No, not even a pillow. Maybe you add a border–a very thin border– and leave it at that.”

P.S. I tried some of Tim’s tricks for quick spring home updates. After struggling to arrange some hooks in a vee shaped design I kind of gave up, but my walls overall look so much better!

Original Article by: Parade

Continue Reading

Trending

Copyright © 2018 FB-MR - Mr.Full Broadcast Team